the social sommelier

50 shades of wine

With a group?  By yourself?  Do you go fast or take your time?  Do you prefer someone with experience, or a novice?  How do you like to taste wine?  Personally, I prefer a blindfold.  Ok, I'll stop there.  But I will say that there is a fair bit of pleasure when blind tasting wine... and after my third Malbec in a row, a touch of pain.   It's more than just a party trick to impress your friends.  I can assure you it's not a magic trick and it's not even brain surgery.  It's a skill that anyone can learn, but I warn you... you're going to have to spit... I mean drink... let's say taste a lot of wine in order to really master the art of blind tasting.  

Why even do it in the first place?  First off ,there is no actual blindfold in blind tasting.  In fact, our sight is one of the most important senses when tasting wine.  Pouring the wine into a glass so that you can't see the bottle eliminates all prejudice and pretentiousness that's often associated with wine.  There are so many distractions and if we're really going to understand a wine we need to remove any preconceived notions or judgements we may have.  It doesn't matter what the label looks like, or who made the wine, or from what part of the world it hails.  There is something to admire, appreciate, or learn from every single glass of wine and blind tasting is the best way to get at it's core.  It's just you and a glass of grape juice.  All you have are your senses, your memory, and hopefully a wealth of wine knowledge to connect all the pieces of the puzzle.  

 There are over 50 different elements of wine that we look for when blind tasting.  I'm not going to get into everything here but I'll give you an idea.  What do you see?  Any bubbles?  Floating bits?  That may have just eliminated 75% of the wines out there.  You're on your way.  What about color?  Here's a tip: White wines get more color as they age and red wines are the opposite as the color fades with age.  Now swirl.  It's not a contest to see how fast you can spin a glass of wine without spilling a drop.  Just give the glass a little shake or swirl but no need to pull a muscle.  The wine has literally been asleep for a number of years.  It just needs to wake up.  Ever hear the term "Nice legs"?   Now, ever hear that term in reference to your wine?  If you swirl a glass of water all the liquid just slides down the sides of a glass.  Wine doesn't do that and clings to the side of the glass because of two things, sugar and alcohol.  That glass of wine with legs slowly dripping down the side tell me more than you can imagine.  Now smell.  Please don't strain your body to sniff as hard as you possibly can because you'll end up with a headache worse than a 7-11 Slurpee brain freeze.  Nose at the top of the glass, few short sniffs, that's all you need.  So you're telling me that you can't detect the subtle hints of kaffir lime, bergamot oil, or Ethiopian coffee beans?  It doesn't matter.   Stop trying to put so much pressure on yourself to say the exact word or fruit to describe a wine.  Start with categories.  Orchard fruits like apples and pears.  Citrus fruits like limes and lemons.  Tropical fruits like pineapple and passion fruit.  Red berries like strawberries and raspberries.  Black fruit like plums and blackberries.  That's it.  Once you're in the right camp, you've almost nailed it.  Now take it a step further, but remember, don't try to force these descriptions and come up with the one perfect response.  Use your memory to transport yourself to another time and place where you might have come across these same aromas.  Cooking Christmas dinner.  Standing outside during the rain.  Walking through a farmer's market.  Roasting marshmallows by the campfire.  Find an emotional connection to the glass in front of you and the words will just come.  All of this even before taking a sip, and I bet you already have a pretty good idea about the wine.  

Maybe it is just a trick you use to impress friends, or maybe you're studying for the Master Sommelier exam.  Tasting blind takes it to a whole new level that gets to the very essence of the grape, the land, and the people that go into making the wine.  It's an understanding of geography, history, climate, and a cultural tradition that transcends each sip.  You never hear about your sense of hearing but that's really what it's all about.  Every wine has a story to tell and it literally is jumping out of the glass trying to tell you.  You just have to listen.  Listen to the acidity and alcohol in a wine and if it tells you that it has oak, please don't ignore it.  Wines will not lie as long as your senses are alert and listening.

But why do we really do it?  Why do we stay past midnight at the restaurant after a long shift or spend our one day off talking shop and tasting wine?  People ask me all the time what's the best way to learn more about wine.  Well the answer is to surround yourself with other passionate lovers... of wine.  At every level of wine there are other people just like you, eager to learn and taste and talk about wine.  Get a group together and just taste wine.  Cover the labels.  Don't cover the labels.  See where you feel conformable and do what you enjoy.  Wine is a social creature and it's best served when surrounded by friends.  Taste with a group and I promise you that you'll learn and appreciate that much more about the wine in your glass.  It doesn't matter of you "don't fucking drink merlot," or think a buttery chardonnay is best served at 5 p.m. with a couple of ice cubes.  We all taste wines for different reasons but hopefully at the top of our list is pleasure.  

rekindling an old flame

I met her in Chicago.  It was love at first sight and oh, did we travel together!  New York for a few years then across the pond to London.  We wanted to go on forever, but in England we said goodbye as she sought the comfort of another friend from South America.  Time moved on.  I moved to Toronto and then Pittsburgh.  Stories surfaced of her return to North America, but I figured I'd seen the last of her.  Then, just a few weeks ago as I opened the cellar door at our friend's house in Miami, there she was, winking at me from across the shelf.  You knew I was talking about the 2003 Fisher, Mountain Estate Chardonnay from Napa, right?

 So many different cities, so many twists of fate that brought us back together.  As if out of a Tom Robbins novel, our two parallel lives had crisscrossed like a patchwork quilt only to find ourselves back together after more than 10 years.  It's not often that I so openly choose a bottle out of another man's cellar, but I was not going to let her slip past my grasp one more time.  I couldn't help but remember the day our eyes first met and immediately reached out to friends who had been at the bar that fateful evening.  This caused one friend across the country to shout with excitement in a crowded restaurant as he read my message.  All of a sudden, my heart sank, as I realized the distinct possibility that things would be different.  Had I built this up too much?  How could this live up to the hype?  So much time had passed and would that same spark still exist?

I was a nervous wreck until dinner and could hardly wait.  I wanted everything to be perfect.  The temperature, the lighting, and even opened up to take a breadth of air.  Right away she was beautiful, but she showed her age as the years had taken its toll.  No longer a bright flashy blond, she'd gone darker, almost auburn with copper highlights.  The sweet tropical perfume I remembered she'd worn that first night was now much smokier, earthier, almost musky.  Still intriguing and inviting, but far less flirtatious than before.  The once soft flesh was now wrinkled, almost weathered, but she carried herself with a look of wisdom and sophistication.  Ahhh, but she was still racy and quick witted as ever!  She still had me on the edge of my seat, coming back for more.

She'd changed... but then so had I.  We weren't the same two that met in the bar so many years before.  Part of me liked her more, part of me liked her less.  To be honest, it didn't matter.  I realized over dinner that I wasn't really looking to repeat that one experience from the past, but I wanted to reconnect and see how we'd grown and matured over the years.  I'm glad that I'm not the same person or wine taster that I was ten years ago and likewise I'd have been disappointed if the Chardonnay hadn't changed a bit.  It wasn't just getting to taste the same wine that I'd had before.  It was getting to reconnect with the exact same bottle that had been with me for so long and remembering where our paths crossed.  I love to give wine as a gift but often with the caveat that a particular bottle must not be opened for a certain number of years.  This isn't just so the wine has time to develop new flavors and mature.  This anticipation and wait becomes a culmination of all the events that have led you through the story, the journey, to eventually sit down and enjoy this wine.  Go on, try it.  give someone a bottle of wine and see what happens.  It can be for a birthday or celebration, or maybe it's just Tuesday and you want to send your friend home with an extra bottle you have laying around in your collection.  Who knows.  Maybe you'll be fortunate enough to enjoy the wine together one day later.  Or maybe your friend will fondly remember the day that you gave them that bottle, and also reflect on the other great memories that you've shared together.  Either way that bottle will be able to tell one hell of a story, and after all, isn't that one of the reasons we love wine so much in the first place?

 

Tasting Note

2003 Fisher Mountain Estate Chardonnay, Napa Valley - Tawney color with an orange/brick red hue.  Almost port-like on the nose with raisins, prunes, orange peel and honey.  Candied spice like ginger and beeswax.  Great acidity that still raced though the wine and a smokiness that reminded me of the caramelized top of a creme brulee.  

tried and true

It's Friday night and you just finished a long week of work.  The desire to go out on the town has narrowly been eclipsed by changing into sweatpants and curling up on the couch for a good movie.  Maybe you quickly throw a steak on the grill or pick up the phone for delivery.  Either way... easy.  Now what to drink?  You've certainly earned a few glasses of wine but maybe this isn't the time to dust off your prized gem in the cellar. Right now you need a good, reliable, comforting glass of wine.  It doesn't matter if you have a fillet on the grill or Chinese food at your doorstep, we're not looking for the ultimate pairing. This is your house, your rules, and your tried and true house wine.

A good house wine will be appropriate for a dinner party with friends, your parents are in town, or that random Tuesday night when a good friend drops by to catch up.  You should be excited to pop the cork and share the bottle, but certainly not hesitant that the wine is too expensive for the occasion.   The idea of house wine has probably been tainted by restaurants serving the cheapest possible wine that they can pass off and serve by the glass.  I'm not saying that a house wine should be crazy expensive either though.  There's a time for celebration wines that you've been saving, just like there's a time for inexpensive discovery wines that you're curious to try.  This your house wine that speaks to your personality and says something about what you like to drink.

If you have ever traveled through Europe you'll know that wine prices are much cheaper than here in North America.  A local taverna or bistro might only serve two wines, red or white, and that's because that's what their family has been making from their vines out back for centuries.  Of course we think it's the best wine ever and the price is usually pennies compared to what we're used to paying.  The family snickers at our excitement and doesn't see what all the fuss is about.  We're eager to buy the wine by the barrel and show off our latest discovery to our friends.  Of course, the wine isn't for sale.  Why would they want to turn a profit on a hobby that's been in the family for as long as they can remember?  It's not about money, it's tradition.  They learned from their parents how to tend to the vines and they'll teach their kids the same.  The truth is that the wine probably isn't earth shattering in the first place but how can you discount the beautiful atmosphere and people you shared it with?  When the old man returns from the cellar and smiles with pride as he pours a few glasses from an unlabeled bottle of his family's hard work and tradition, that's a true house wine.

Whether hosting people at your home or even working in a restaurant, you should be proud to serve the house wine.  If you wouldn't be happy drinking a glass yourself, why serve it in the first place?  We're not talking about the perfect pairing, 100 pointer, epiphany wine.  We're talking about a solid, everyday, go on and pour me a glass of that, kind of wine.  Yes, the wine should be inexpensive, but that doesn't mean cheap or compromising.  And since most of us don't have the resources or plot of land in our backyard to make the wine ourselves, that hard work comes in the form of tasting and discovery.  I know, i know,  it's tough work.  But seriously, do your homework and try different grapes, regions and producers until you find the right one.  Push your wine merchants or wholesalers to bring in exciting finds and values from around the world.  Now, a $10 bottle of Bordeaux or Burgundy probably isn't the best option here because these regions are dominated by rare collectibles and some of the priciest wines you can find.  Sometimes if a wine looks too good to be true, then it probably is.  Try the Rhone Valley in France, or Veneto in Italy, or even Rioja in Spain where there are still a number of good values to be found.  There are plenty of gems out there just waiting to be discovered and enjoyed.  

We all know which wines make the cut for the cellar or wine fridge, but the guitar shaped wine rack in the living room that you accidentally won at a silent auction, now that's for your everyday house wine.  Each time I open a bottle I hope that I share the same glimmer of excitement and pride that the old man in the French countryside has when he pours another bottle of his family's legacy.  The one advantage that we have is that we're not tied down to just one wine.  Mix it up!  Change your house wine with the seasons, your mood, and even your own taste.  The bottle that you enjoyed when you started learning about wine probably isn't the same as your favourite today.  Those one-off prized bottles that you've been saving for years may be the best wine you've ever had, or it could disappoint.  That's part of the risk with wine, and we love it.  Our tried and true house wine though, never lets me down and always puts a smile on my face.  Whatever the price of your house wine or wherever it comes from, just remember that life's too short to drink bad wine.  

My Current Favourite House Wines 

Red 

2011 Delas Crozes-Hermitage, "Les Launes", Rhone Valley, France

2009 Muga Rioja Reserva, Rioja, Spain

White

2013 Alselmi San Vincenzo, Veneto, Italy

2012, Sauvignon Blanc, Henri Bourgeois, "Petit Bourgeois", Loire Valley, France

margaritas by the gallon

 Pouring Bordeaux under the table while the rest of the family drinks Manischewitz at Passover.  My dad serving an excessive amount of Champagne on New Years Day when everyone is clearly hungover.  Bringing a bottle of Rioja to almost every party for the last 35 years.  Sure, my family has some pretty great drinking traditions, but none as remarkable as the Margarita.  Today is Cinco de Mayo and I'm sure it is one of the biggest margarita days of the year.  I'll bet my parents are even mixing up a batch in Chicago as we speak.  However, what about Easter, Thanksgiving, Three Kings day, Father's day, Earth day, Fourth of July, or Martin Luther King's birthday?  Yep, my parents just arrived with a bottle of Marques de Riscal Rioja, and a gallon of margaritas.  

If you have ever been to one of my Chicago backyard BBQ's then you've had the pleasure of trying a Narea family margarita.  And as I mentioned above, yes, they're made by the gallon.  We all love the art of the bartender and watching them craft a beautiful cocktail in a shaker, but these are margaritas!  It's time to party, catch up with friends and get right into the drinks.  No fancy pitcher or punch bowl for these libations.  They arrive in the same gallon water jug where they were made just a few hours ago.  You're telling me that you're not getting excited right now picturing someone showing up to your BBQ with a few gallon jugs of margaritas?  That guy over there in the tank top with a case of Bud Light on his shoulder just cringed a little.  

 A gallon of martinis, nope.  A gallon of old fashioned, I don't think so.  But a gallon of margaritas, now we're talking!  If everyone wasn't already hanging around the cooler before... better make some room!  It's hard to claim that one cocktail is more social than another, but I say that a jug of margs might be the winner.  People rushing over from all corners of the yard to see what the fuss is about, and lets just hope there are enough cups.  Couldn't decide between the Corona or the Goose Island?  Don't worry, decision has been made for you and now everyone at the party is raising a plastic red cup of this Mexican favourite.  Not too strong to knock you off your feet, but just enough of a refreshing kick to make you feel good and remind you that summer has finally arrived.  You might want to even have a second jug on hand, few people just have one.  

I can still remember the first time my younger brother was allowed to mix the ingredients.  Let's just say that he was a little heavy handed with the triple sec and that was a Memorial Day that nobody will ever forget. Family and friends flew in from all over for my 30th and my grandfather's 90th birthdays and sure enough, the water jugs made an appearance.  Our wedding weekend was even kicked off with margaritas on the shores of Lake Michigan in Door County.  These drinks have been at every major milestone and family get-together so of course they would be there at one of the biggest events in my life.  These margaritas are as much about meeting new people as they are about family traditions and the excitement of getting everyone together.  

I used to keep the recipe a secret.  I thought that if only I knew the proportions then maybe I would be able to unlock the magic of summer any time that I wanted.  But that's not really what this cocktail is all about.  We're talking about a gallon of tasty tequila that's meant to be shared with as many people as possible.  Are they the world's greatest margarita?  I don't know.  I've tasted quite a few from all over the globe and I'd still say that these are pretty delicious.  If they were made one at a time would they still get the same reaction?  I don't know, and to be honest, I've never tried.  Summer is too short and there is already a lineup of cups eagerly anticipating our signature cocktail.  So try it at your next party.  I'll even let you call it your own.  Just be ready to make a few new friends and always save a cup for yourself.  

 

The Narea Family Margarita

1 gallon jug of water, emptied and water reserved

1 bottle (750 mL) Tequila - Try Milagro Silver

1/2 bottle (375 mL) Triple Sec or Cointreau

2 frozen cylinders or Limeade concentrate

1 egg white

Pour all ingredients in emptied gallon jug.  Fill the rest of the way to the top with water.  Leave in freezer for a few hours before party.  Serve over ice with a lime wedge (if they aren't astronomically expensive).  Enjoy!

 

standing up straight... or still sideways?

"Just tell your customers that we don't have any pinot noir.  We can't get any pinot noir.  And thanks to that damn movie Sideways, there is no pinot noir left in the city of Chicago!"   

It was my first job in the wine business and this was honestly what we were instructed to tell our restaurants and wine shops after the movie Sideways came out.  It's not as if pinot noir never existed before, but it certainly had not received such celebrated fame across all wine drinkers until we were introduced to such a hopelessly romantic character named Miles, nearly 10 years ago.  I for one instantly fell in love with the movie but I can't say the same for all of my colleagues throughout the wine industry.  Some found fault with the tasting techniques or descriptors used to talk about wine.  Others just couldn't identify with the compromising characters and found them too extreme for how a true wine lover would behave.  While many people shunned the personalities and opinions in the movie, perhaps it just touched a little too close to home.

10 years, just like that!  I'm not sure what prompted me to think about this movie but I couldn't help but to reflect over the 10 years that I've worked in the wine industry.  It was a great opportunity to dig out a few bottles of 2006 Hitching Post pinot noir that were begging to be opened.  Hitching Post, in fact, was the restaurant and winery often featured in the movie Sideways, and this was one of the first gems that I purchased when we moved here two years ago.  My wife and I invited another couple over for dinner and after preparing the menu, I just hoped that the wine, and the evening, would live up to the anticipation.

I can assure you that the effects of this movie are still being felt around the wine world.  The demand for pinot noir has continued to rise and the prices right up there with it.  Whole vineyards were ripped out and replanted, while gambling winemakers tried their hand at this fickle grape.  Today we're seeing amazing pinot noir from Oregon, New Zealand, to Chile, and South Africa.  Perhaps they were on to something!  Merlot on the other hand has taken a hit, but maybe not as much as people would have thought given Miles' famous quote in the movie, "I'm not drinking any fucking merlot!"  Merlot in fact continues to the #1 most popular grape in the United States.   What many winemakers in California have done, however, is taken the word "Merlot" off the bottle and replaced it with a proprietary name like Meritage, Vintner's Collection, or Red Blend.  Other winemakers didn't even have to do anything at all to convince you to drink merlot.  That amazing 1961 Cheval Blanc that Miles had been saving for just the right occasion and ends up drinking it out of a styrofoam cup at a burger stand... Yep, that famous Bordeaux is made up of mostly Merlot.  Or how about that great Super Tuscans from the rolling hills of Italy?  Not a single grape mentioned on the label and sure, there is the local Sangiovese grape in there, but half the wine is probably made up of Merlot.  The important point is just make sure you enjoy the wine, no matter what the grape.

The greatest scene in the movie takes place on the back porch where Miles and Maya take turns explaining what they love about pinot noir in rather poetic monologues.  I can remember a slight tear in my eye the first time I watched this and still today I hold my breadth as I listen to their words about wine.  "Haunting and brilliant, and thrilling and subtle, and... ancient."  This movie isn't just about the supremacy of one grape but a window into the soul of anyone that has caught the wine bug.  I'm not talking about even casual aficionado who knows a ton about wine and even has the cellar to back it up.  I'm talking about the pour soul who tasted an unforgettable sip of wine, closed their eyes as time stood still, and realized that this is what they wanted to do for the rest of their life.  These are the hopeless romantics, always in search of the soul and poetic nature of wine.  Talk to any sommelier or wine professional and they can point to the moment, and bottle, that put their lives on a new path.  For me it was the unlikely setting of a wine tasting course my senior year of university.  Who knew that we would be tasting the 1952 Chateau Margaux from Bordeaux?  It's almost as if I didn't have a choice.  

Now pinot noir takes center stage in the movie because the grape does in fact excel in the Santa Barbara and Santa Rita Hills region, but also because of the analogy with Miles' character.  "Thin skinned."  "Temperamental."  "Needs constant care and attention."  Miles is certainly not the most enviable of personalities, but maybe you'd have to be a bit "sideways" to fall so completely in love with wine in the first place.  Those of us who work in the industry know the toll that it can take on friends and family.   When most people are out to play and celebrate, we're at work.  We take something as simple as fermented grape juice and get lost in the subtleties and the romantic stories that surround the wine.  It's this transcendent nature of wine that ignites our passion, fuels our quest for new wines, and reminds us that there is nothing else in the world that we'd rather do.  

So the dinner party... Well we polished off several bottles of wine and tucked into a bit of whiskey at the end of the night so I think it's safe to call it a success.  From the Sancerre and Grey Owl goat cheese to start, to the roasted beef tenderloin and pinot noir, the pairings matched brilliantly.  The '06 certainly held its own and hinted of an aged Barolo, with an earthy truffle core surrounded by layers of dried fruit.  This wine wasn't shiny and pristine.  It showed the wrinkles under his eyes and scruffy beard covering the scars on his face.  This wine had a story to tell and each sip delivered.  We talked and laughed well into the night and often about my experiences in wine.  It's hard not to show our passion when we talk about wine.  Have you ever tried asking a question to someone who really loves wine? Maybe while they were reading over the wine list or even closing their eyes to have a sip of wine?  I swear we're not ignoring you but instead having a moment where we feel the pulse and life of the wine, and just lose ourselves in the excitement.  But of all the reasons that we discovered, drink, and love to talk about wine, it's as Maya said in the movie, "It tastes so fucking good."

Pinor Noir Recommendations

Hitching Post, Fiddlestix, Santa Rita Hills, California

Domaine Drouhin, Cuvee Laurenne, Willamette Valley, Oregon

Felton Road, Central Otago, New Zealand

Hamilton Russell, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa

Jacques Frederic Mugnier, Clos de la Marechale, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Burgundy, France

a drink with my son... in 21 years

The funny thing about working in the wine business is that all of a sudden people start giving you wine gifts.  I've seen it all.  Golf towels, cheese trays, card games, icesicle chillers, elaborate paintings, those cute stoppers to save the remnants of an unfinished bottle of wine.  What wine lover out there has half drunk bottles of wine sitting around their house?  On the flip side I can also say that since I've been working in the wine business most of the gifts that I give out revolve around a recently discovered gem that's a great value to drink now, or a classic bottle that I'd like a friend to save for a few years.  The latter is primarily reserved for special milestones that will be fun to relive in 5-10 years and also see the improvement of the wine at that time.  However, I've never treated myself to that same present.   The birth of my son Jax in 2013 seems like a pretty good opportunity to start such a tradition, but what wine?  We're talking about the perfect cellared treasure to open on his 21st birthday!  We're talking about toasts and stories of how I came to pick the wine and how I excited I am to share it with the family.  Yes, this will go down as the ultimate wine gift and I'm feeling the pressure.

 

Well the obvious place to start is Bordeaux.  I mean the '52 Margaux was how I fell in love with wine in the first place, it's perfect.  Not so fast there captain Claret!  I'm picking a 2013 wine that won't be made for another year or so,  won't be released for sale for another few years, and finally opened in another 15 years after that???  Let's take a look at the facts first.  For starters, it looks like the only feature Jax inherited from me isn't just our chubby cheeks.  We both have the tough luck being born in a difficult Bordeaux vintage (1981 for those of you keeping score).  2013 was rough!  Cold wet spring, followed by a summer hail storm, and finished with more rain and mildew at harvest.  Yeah, that sounded fun.  Oh I'm sure prices will still find a way to go up and producers might claim that they sorted the grapes meticulously and their wines are still great.  I'm just saying that I'd stay away from the 2013's.

 

Unfortunately catastrophic climate didn't limit itself to the banks of the Gironde.  Most of Western Europe felt this same turmoil and battled with inopportune rain, cool conditions and disease in the vineyards.  Burgundy didn't fare much better than Bordeaux and Champagne might not even declare the vintage.  Well let's cross France off the list, so who else is a classic contender?  Port is a great wine to lie down for decades but you won't get the chance to taste the 13's because it just wasn't up to par.  And when you only have maybe two declared vintages in a decade, those standards are pretty high.  Anything else from the Iberian Peninsula?  Spain had been bone dry from drought over the past few years that the extra rain this year was seen as a miracle to replenish the soil.  Rioja might be the one standout region this year, but do I really want to invest in a farming victory as opposed to a wine makers triumph?  I think I'll hold off.  Italy is next on my list but the weather wasn't quite so uniform across the country to make a blanket statement.  Same story with rain but in a few regions there was a shining light, literally.  Temperatures stayed cool from Summer straight trough Autumn and the sun was shining just enough during the day to ripen the grapes.  Tuscany may have seen a touch more mildew in the fields and there could be a shortage of star wines coming out of that region.  Piedmont, however, saw near perfect conditions allowing the late ripening Nebbiolo grape plenty of time to mature and develop character.  We could have our winner here as Barolo is one of my all time favourite wines and definitely needs several years to soften the structure and showcase all her earthy flavours.

 

Ok, so what about the rest of the world?  Oh, whom I kidding, I'm an old world wine lover and I'm already picturing me and Jax decanting a bottle of Barolo and enjoying the wine together.  To be fair though, regions in The United States, Argentina, Australia, and New Zealand all saw near perfect growing conditions.  If I were the sort of person who was drawn to this style of wine it would be a perfect year to buy a Don Mechelor Malbec, or Two Hands Shiraz, or Heitz Martha's Vineyard Cab.  There's even a $50 JAX Cabernet from Napa Valley.  I'm sure the wine is pretty good and the name alone makes a great story.  

 

Actually, that's it right there.  What's the story that I want to tell Jax when we open this wine together.  I want this bottle to sum up everything that I love about wine and hopefully be able to share that passion with him one day.  The wine should speak of incredible journeys through vineyards, echo the outstanding pairing with food, and reminisce about great friends that I've had the pleasure of sharing a bottle.  Who's to say that he'll even want to sit down with his boring dad, no doubt retelling the same stories for the millionth time.  It makes me think about my dad and I wonder how receptive I've been in the past to share a drink.  I kind of want to call him and invite him over right now.  This anticipation is all part of the story.  For now I still have to wait, see how the wines progress, select the perfect Barolo, and then wait some more.  I'm so excited to taste this wine!  But the real gift, of course, will be sharing it with my boy.  

 

POSSIBLE 2013 wine recommendations:

Gaja, Barbaresco

Aldo Conterno, Romirasco Barolo

Bruno Giacosa, Barolo Felletto

Vietti, Masseria Barbaresco

Giuseppe Mascarello, Monprivato Barolo

did you say tapas or topless?

Keep your shirt on for this social samba!  A bar crawl might feature inebriated Santas stumbling down the road.  A progressive dinner party is a slightly more mature crowd moving from one friend's home to the next for each course of the meal.  But nowhere in the world captures the revelry of the night, delicious food, and fantastic friends quite like Seville, Spain.  

Here in the south of Spain, tapas bar hopping is something of a religion.  No matter what night of the week, once the sun goes down the plazas are filled with friends looking to share a glass of wine and the stories of the day.  The same cobbled stone streets winding through the city of Seville have been trampled for thousands of years and cary with them this tradition.  Paths are almost indented in the ground leading you from one bar to the next.  

Where to start?  The locals I'm sure all know the best little hole in the wall joints but as a visitor you never want to be fooled by a tourist trap.  And this is where Seville is so great.  They're all authentic tiny bars just oozing with character and history.  Even my rule of thumb to never patron the places right on the main squares is trumped.  You simply can't go wrong!  A good sign might be the regulars at the bar bantering with owner like close family.  Maybe you spot an old man in the corner writing poetry and sipping sherry.  Don't wait too long because there's a crowd right behind you just waiting to grab an inch of bar real estate to rest their copa of vino.  

What to eat?  I don't say this lightly... but literally everything!  Let the adventurous spirit of Spanish culture guide your ordering.  Certain bars might boast the best croquetas in all of Spain but I can assure you that everything on the chalkboard menu or hanging from the rafters is a delectable treat.  Tortilla, queso, chorizo, patatas bravas, boquerones, and albondigas.  Let's not forget the heavenly jamon iberico, meticulously sliced razor thin so that melts right on your tongue.  If you can't translate something on the menu, still order it.  That's the beauty of tapas and sharing small plates with your friends.  Someone in the group is bound to enjoy the plate.  

 What to drink?  Well first you have to reach the bar, and I bet you didn't realize that this was a contact sport.  First, erase the image of elbowing your way forward through a frustrated crowd just to score a light beer or watered down cocktail.  This is Spain.  This is the part of the country where they invented flamenco!  You dance to the front moving your hips and raising your arms to the vibe of the party.  Don't be shy in these tight quarters and you'll be dancing with new and old friends alike.  I wouldn't advise shouting out an "Ole" once you've reached the bar, but don't be afraid to show your excitement.  Perhaps an acquired taste, but nothing pairs more perfectly with almonds, olives, and ham like a salty, briny, nutty sherry.  Poured directly from the barrel, this oxidized and earthy elixir is the perfect start to the night and really awakens your taste buds.  Now a tapas crawl is not the time to get too caught up in the wine list.  A simple glass of vino tinto will do just fine.  You might discover a gem form lesser known regions like Jumilla, or Valdepenas, but really the aromatic and fruit driven wines of the south will cary just the right amount of spice to accompany your array of tapas.  Wine is such an important part of the night, and yet the intoxication you're likely feeling is more from the aromas, tastes, and laughter that fills your senses.  

Every major culture has their take on small plate dining.  Turkish Meze, Italian Cechi, and French chacuterie.  Even the Americans have been in the game for some time.  They just called them apps.  Unfortunately none hold a candle to the tapas of Seville.  Whether reflecting over the day, lamenting over lost love, or exploring a new city on a vacation with friends, the bars of Seville will welcome you in with open arms and you may never want to leave.  Tapas are more than just small plates of food, they're nourishment for the soul.  One more great thing about a night of tapas is that the food is cheap and the drinks are next to nothing.  So even after an epic night exploring the bars of Seville you won't, well... lose your shirt.

Wine Recommendations

NV Manzanilla Sherry, "Pastrana", Bodegas Hidalgo - Notes of sea air, almonds, and green olives, with a slight creamy texture.  If you are going to learn to appreciate sherry, might as well taste one of the best!

 

sunday funday

It's really the trickiest day of the week.  So many options for just one of your two days off.  It's very different from Saturday, of course, because of the impending workweek that lies ahead and knowing that when you wake up tomorrow, it will be Monday all over again.  For some it is a day of reflection, and rest.  For others it is a chance to get ahead on work or errands so that you're better prepared for the week.  Friday already feels so long ago and now that assignment that you've procrastinated for ages might finally have to be completed by the end of the day.  And let's not forget a perfect Sunday afternoon watching football, no matter how you interpret that sport.  But sometimes, just sometimes, you decide to indulge in one more day of pure pleasure and before you know it, it's Sunday Funday.  The two approaches I prefer for such a gratifying afternoon of course revolve around food and drink.  Two different meals.  Two different cultures.  Two fantastic ways to catch up with friends over a boozy, delicious feast.  The American brunch, or the English Sunday lunch?

Brunch is really a cocktail culture.  Eye opening mimosas, spicy bloody marys, and luscious bellinis.  Any meal that regularly encourages the popping of champagne corks is alright by me!  "Brunch.  It's not quite breakfast, it's not quite lunch, but it comes with a slice of cantaloupe at the end."  Even the Simpsons understood that this wonderful meal is more than just a cross of two smaller meals, it is a gluttonous medley of flavours that packs as many ingredients on one plate as you can imagine.  The ultimate combinations of sweet and savory.  Mountains of pancakes and french toast sitting side by side sausages, and smoked meats.  Inventive benedicts swimming in sweet creamy hollandaise.  And the best of all... bacon, bacon, and more bacon!  Brunch is a playful meal that allows chefs to create symphonies of food that combine the flavors we love from all times of the day.  Breakfast burritos more packed than a Mexican fiesta, egg skillets scrambled with a Thanksgiving feast, and why not the Dr. Seuss favorite green eggs and ham.  Brunch is intoxicating, not just by the rounds and rounds of champagne cocktails, but by the laughter and giddiness of friends sharing stories from an eventful weekend.  Brunch is the time to escape from the pressures and anxieties of work, and relish an extra day of bliss.

Now, you're just as likely to find a proper English Sunday lunch at a Michelin starred restaurant as you will your local pub down the road, but to truly enjoy in the revelry of Sunday afternoon, there's no better spot than a good old English pub.  The rustic walls, wooden tables, and low rickety bar stools are just the first signs that this storied meal from medieval times is rich with tradition.  No umbrella drinks to kick things off here, but rather a proper pint of English ale.  I'm talking the type of cask aged beer that takes the strength of two men just to pump into your glass.  Ordering food is a simple process as there is typically just one option on the menu, Sunday lunch.  Juicy roasts of beef, giant joints of lamb, or whole suckling pigs are accompanied by their loyal followers of duck fat-roasted potatoes, fields of roast vegetables, towering Yorkshire puddings and a sea of rich gravy.  Whether its a pitcher of the village house red wine or a fine Burgundy or Rhone from a more extensive offering, wine certainly plays its part at this banquet.  Nothing too heavy or overpowering, but just fresh and balanced enough to tie together all the flavors of the feast.  You can just picture hordes of friends raising their goblets of wine with joy.  No, this meal is not for the faint of heart.  Sunday lunch is a boisterous time to regale stories of love, conquest, voyages, and victories.  

The drinks certainly keep flowing on Sunday Funday, and why shouldn't they in the company of such good friends, food, and celebration.  Both these meals remind us that it's important to sometimes take a step back, and break bread with those that matter most to us.  And that project you had to finish up for work?  Well I'm sure you'll be up early the next morning as most people are in bed by 7 pm on Sunday Funday.

Drink Reccomendations

2009 Ridgeview Sparkling Wine, West Sussex, England - For your Champagne cocktails try using an English sparkler.  Trust me, the quality is there.  Ridgeview has a fresh palate of brioche, citrus, orange peel, and toasted caramel.  

2008 Herringbone Hills Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand - This wine worked perfectly on a recent trip to the Mall Tavern (pictured above) in London for Sunday lunch.  Notes of red cherries and rhubarb were followed by pepper and truffles.  One bottle will definitely not be enough!

2006 Bourgeuil, Jacky Blot Domaine de la Butte, Loire, France - This cabernet franc from the Loire valley would be another great choice for Sunday lunch.  A slightly spicier option than the pinot noir, here you have roasted red pepper, raspberry, and black tea.  

tis the season...

Not long ago it was the wine bar.  Then, the small plates and tapas movement began to take over.  Today, local/seasonal restaurants are multiplying in your neighborhood like jackrabbits.  When I first came to London 15 years ago there were certainly no local British restaurants.  I remember going French our first night, then Italian the following night, and then dying for some real British food to round out the trip.  Sure enough, it was back to the French.  Today it’s a much different story with more and more restaurants taking to this local movement.  So how do we distinguish the authentic and exceptional from just another local? 

If you look on-line you might find books and calenders charting when certain foods are at their height.  You may have even heard, "only eat oysters in months with an R."  Everyone wants to be an expert but only the truly passionate go the extra mile to recognize that even a stalk of asparagus ripens differently from climate to climate, country to country, and even year to  year.  The extraordinary don’t just take what the seasons give them, but get out there into nature with dirt under their nails and seize the best of the season.  Chef Alan Stewart has epitomised this having recently taken over the kitchen at Manson Restaurant in London.  He’s less concerned with labels like “farm to table” and instead just cooks from his instincts.  Don't picture him getting lost in books digging up old recipes, he has his nose right in the field just five minutes from his Fulham restaurant.  A small allotment allows him to see firsthand when the produce is ready and dishes are born from that inspiration.  One day he might have it and the next it’s gone, but that’s what the seasons determine.  It’s more than just being inspired by the seasons,  it's actually getting your hands on the most beautiful, freshest ingredients, and showcasing the best they have to offer.  

So how do you discover who are the truly seasonal restaurants?  How do you decode the mountain of restaurant guides and reviews?  Just get out there and ask the chef!  A group of us dined at Manson recently and Chef Alan was right there beaming about the latest produce to come in from the allotment.  I was ecstatic about the venison but it was a piece of fresh celeriac that just came in that had chef over the moon.  A simple puree that exploded with autumn and root flavors accompanied the venison tartar and completely made the dish.  This chef certainly isn't hiding in the back and the open kitchen allows you to share comments on a favorite dish or ask him questions about the food.  The idea of a local restaurant is more than just convenience.  Gems like Manson are local because they invite you to enjoy the treats of the season and all the staff on-hand are eager to share their excitement.  I've said the same thing before about sommeliers and wine professionals.  Look them in the eye and find out where their passion stands.  That's how you really find out who you want right around the corner.

Wine Recommendations With Seasonal Game Menu at Manson

Scottish Venison tartar, celeriac, cobnuts, and pickled girolles- 2008 Little Yering Pinot Noir, Yering Staiton, Yarra Valley, Australia.  Cool climate Pinot from one of the top Producers in Victoria.  Flavors of red cherries, spice and mushrooms dominate this wine with its silky texture and bright acidity to match the tartar of venison.

Red Leg Partridge, quince, honey, and toasted oats - 2008 Limousin Reserva, Marques de Riscal, Rueda Spain.  One of the best known producers in all of Rioja, this wine ventures west of the region to produce this white wine from Rueda.  A blend of Verdejo and Viura, the wine has a beautiful straw yellow color with added richness and complexity coming from the extended maceration and lees contact.  Notes of honey, fennel, lemon, grilled peaches, and hazelnuts.  Quite a bit going on in this wine and a slightly more full bodied texture to stand up to the game and a lovely smokiness to tie the dish together.

Yorkshire Grouse, damsons and savoy cabbage-  2007 Biferno Reserva, Camillos de Lellis, Molise, Italy.  A wonderful gem from Southern Italy, just above in the heal of the boot in Molise.  The main grape in this wine is Montepulciano, similar to Sangiovese but a little different, mixed with Aglianico and Trebiano (yes a white grape).  The wine is earthy and rustic with hints of plums, damsons, figs, licorice, and tobacco.  

Apple tart with clove ice-cream- 2009 Coteaux du Layon, Domaine du Pont de Livier, Loire, France.  A sweet wine from the chenin blanc grape grown in the mineral rich Loire valley.  Not too sticky and racy acidity make this a perfect pairing with the apple tart and yet still refreshing the palate after so many delicious flavors.  Great notes of apple, pear, honey, cinnamon, and clove. 

 

the greatest dinner... ever

A Croatian, an American, and a Canadian head out to sea in kayaks... Good start to a joke or the makings of an unforgettable evening with friends?  You never find them them in the guide books or travel magazines, but rather the greatest travel stories happen on those chance meetings or random sequence of events that finds yourself in most local, most authentic of experiences.

The seas were angry that day my friends... Our guide led us past jagged cliffs, hidden caves, and through some rather treacherous waters.  That was all before lunch.  We stopped off at the most unassuming cafe with just a few tables covered in plastic checkered table cloths.  Our guide ordered three plates of whole grilled dorade and three local Croatian beers.  What else would you have at a tiny seaside cafe where the fish were caught just hours before and whose owner held court while manning the outdoor grill.  Stuffed with fresh sprigs of rosemary and covered in a delicious olive oil and garlic marinade, it was without a doubt the best fish I have ever had.  And that was just lunch.

Approving of his foodie credentials, we asked our guide what other gastronomic gems he might be hiding up his sleeve on the Elafite Islands just off the coast of Dubrovnik.  He explained that on the farm where he rented a room the family occasionally hosted dinners for a small fee, where we would be treated to the honest foods of the land that reflected the region and the culture.  He had me at farm!  A call was made.  Friends were assembled, and the following evening we began our trek to the most amazing dinner ever.  

The journey began 45 minutes before sunset, not only for the beautiful views, but because this rocky uphill climb would have been much more difficult in the dark.  The call of the rooster was the first signal we were getting close.  Chickens and goats roamed their pens and the pungent earthy smell of a farm invaded our senses.  From a small concrete room just off the side of the house came the sight of glowing embers and the delicious waft of our dinner which had been roasting underground in a stone pit for nearly five hours.  Not just customers, but guests of their home, our hosts first offered us a sampling of any of the 20 homemade brandies and liqueurs infused with either mint, cinnamon, or stone fruits.  We were off to a great start!

Platters of aged goat cheese, cured meats, and aubergine puree adorned our table to commence the feast.   The cheese was slightly salty and tangy, with a beautiful crumbly texture.  The meats were darker, earthier, and slightly thicker cut.  The puree was smoky and creamy while all being scooped up with fresh homemade breads.  A vegetable soup course highlighted the freshness of the produce while still maintaining their texture in a perfectly seasoned broth.  To accompany the main course were zucchini fritters, fresh tomatoes and cucumbers drizzled in oil and spices, and roasted potatoes cooked in fat from the succulent meats.  The trio of goat, veal, and chicken was a carnivorous feast for the senses.  Juicy, tender, and falling off the bone, it all smelled incredible and held onto their pure meaty aromas and earthy flavors.  Of course the dinner would not have been complete without a little wine.  In the true nature of the meal, there were no fancy bottles or recognizable names.  Instead, a large barrel of local wine made from a variety of red grapes poured into our glasses.  Bright juicy notes of red cherries, plums, vanilla, and spice.  A rounded mouth feel but with the lively acidity to cut through the lush fat on the meat.    

As dinner was winding down, our kayak friend pulled a guitar from the house and jammed away.  Opening with Monty Python's "Bright Side of Life", to Flight of the Conchords, to Bob Dylan, to traditional Croatian songs, he had us singling, dancing, and falling out of our seats laughing.  New friends and old, all at the same table, all having the time of our lives.  On several occasions I had to just sit back in my chair and take everything in.  Speechless, I sat with my glass of wine and just smiled at the incredible fortune and meal that we'd experienced.  It wasn't just the food or the people or even the setting.  It was everything, and how it had come together so randomly.  I guess no matter how precisely you plan your holiday, just make sure that you always talk to the locals and leave a bit of room for the unexpected.

Wine Recommendations

2006 Plavac Mali, Grgic - That's right, the same Mike Grgich from the Napa.  The same Mike Grgch whose 1973 Chateau Montelena chardonnay beat the French at their own game.  The Plavac Mali grape is related to our modern day zinfandel and whose origin is in fact Croatian.  Herbal with hints of tobacco and cedar, round plum tart notes and lush acidity.

2008 Posip, Grgic - This bottling of the posip grape tends to the stone fruits of nectarines and apricots.  Some extended lees contact gives even more complexity adding notes of cloves, spice, vanilla, and dried fruits.  Elegant weight in the wine and can stand up to the smokiness of grilled fish.  

2009 Grasevina, Krauthaker - When crafted with a bit of care, as done here, the grasevina grape displays the minerality and the clay/chalky terroir found in Croatia.  Kafir lime with citrus and white flowers lingering on the palate.  The bright acidity and delicate weight to the wine make it a perfect match for some of the lighter fish fare you'll find on the islands.  

carpe vinum

Seize the wine!  What is the best possible wine that you could be drinking at this very moment?  Don't think presumptuous, think ambitious.  I'm not talking about the La Tache or the La Tour of the world.  I'm talking about a real wine, within your budget, that's available to you right now.  Each time you select a wine there is potential to learn, to be transported, to improve, and to enjoy.  Well then, why wouldn't you want to take full advantage of every opportunity to drink the best possible wine?  Inspiration, evolution, communication.  These are the three key elements that I look at when I'm deciding what to drink.  

What is the inspiration for the food?  Maybe it's a tiny restaurant in Little Italy or perhaps you're actually dining on the Tuscan countryside.  Food is born out of passion and a good restaurant should have a wine list to compliment.  Most cuisines pair best with wines from the same region, as there is a cultural and environmental bond that ties the two.  In fact, one of my favorite rules of wine and food matching is what grows together, goes together.  Your go-to summer white might be a New Zealand Sauvignin Blanc, but a simple light fish at a French bistro might call for a more restrained Sancerre.  They're both the same grape but the minerality, citrus, and floral notes from the Loire Valley of France will pay off in the pairing.  There is a purity of flavor when the food and wine are inspired.  

What's the age of the wines that you're looking at, and how are they stored?  The dusty old bottles pulled from a rack above the coffee machine might not be such a great value after all.  Exploring vintages is one of the great ways we learn about wine-styles and wine-making.  Maybe you have a favorite region or even producer.  Well, make sure you really explore them by tasting from different vintages and seeing how the wine has evolved.  Certain vintages might be declared instant classics and you can bet the prices will rise astronomically.  However, other vintages might be written off upon first release but after a few years of evolution in the bottle they have grown into delicious wines at fantastic values.  I'm looking at you 2001 Bordeaux.  Remember, you're trying to find the best possible wine to drink at this moment.  

Have a chat with the wine guy at the next restaurant or shop that you visit and ask where their passion in wine comes from.  That's right, you quiz the sommelier, not the other way around.  There's no reason why selecting a wine should be a dictation from the sommelier, but rather a conversation.  Find out where they come from, recently visited, or even wines that really make them light up.  A wine list should always convey the personality of the buyer and their passions will certainly show.  What region makes up the largest section?  I bet you not only will the wines match the food brilliantly but the buyer is likely to have spent extra time sourcing hidden gems.  

Drink opportunistically!  Take advantage of all the opportunities, experience, knowledge, and, people around you to find the best wine.  Most people bury their noses in the pages of a wine list or retail shelves that they forget to look around and use all the resources available.  Now, if you've done all this and there is still nothing worth drinking, have a beer!  Life's too short to drink bad wine.  

Drinking Opportunistically

2003 "The Ripper Shiraz", Hope Estate, Western Australia - Take a look at the cellar.  A Brunello would have also paired beautifully with the grilled veal chops but living in London it's harder to find great new-world reds.  Also, my father-in-law loves a good Australian Shiraz and has an excellent cellar in Canada!

2008 "Le Cigare Blanc", Bonny Doon Vineyard, California

2006 "The O.G Grenache", Betts & Scholl, Barossa Valley, Australia - On a recent visit home to Chicago while dining at the fantastic Graham Elliot, these were my two wine selections.  A white Cotes-du-Rhone might have also paired beautifully with the tasting menu but when do I get the chance to drink California?  The main course lamb was calling for a glass of Nebbiolo but I can find half a dozen at my local wine shop in Notting Hill.  The Australian grenache had a nice bit of age with hints of white pepper and a leathery/earthy spice to match the lamb beautifully.  

2000 Savennieres Roches aux Moines, Domaine aux Moines, Loire, France - Pollen Street Social is one of the most exciting restaurants in London with fantastic food and incredible service.  Talking with the sommelier I discovered she was from the Loire Valley in France and sure enough some of the best wines on the list hailed from the same region.  This chenin blanc was an excellent value and a unique gem on the list.