A Croatian, an American, and a Canadian head out to sea in kayaks... Good start to a joke or the makings of an unforgettable evening with friends? You never find them them in the guide books or travel magazines, but rather the greatest travel stories happen on those chance meetings or random sequence of events that finds yourself in most local, most authentic of experiences.
The seas were angry that day my friends... Our guide led us past jagged cliffs, hidden caves, and through some rather treacherous waters. That was all before lunch. We stopped off at the most unassuming cafe with just a few tables covered in plastic checkered table cloths. Our guide ordered three plates of whole grilled dorade and three local Croatian beers. What else would you have at a tiny seaside cafe where the fish were caught just hours before and whose owner held court while manning the outdoor grill. Stuffed with fresh sprigs of rosemary and covered in a delicious olive oil and garlic marinade, it was without a doubt the best fish I have ever had. And that was just lunch.
Approving of his foodie credentials, we asked our guide what other gastronomic gems he might be hiding up his sleeve on the Elafite Islands just off the coast of Dubrovnik. He explained that on the farm where he rented a room the family occasionally hosted dinners for a small fee, where we would be treated to the honest foods of the land that reflected the region and the culture. He had me at farm! A call was made. Friends were assembled, and the following evening we began our trek to the most amazing dinner ever.
The journey began 45 minutes before sunset, not only for the beautiful views, but because this rocky uphill climb would have been much more difficult in the dark. The call of the rooster was the first signal we were getting close. Chickens and goats roamed their pens and the pungent earthy smell of a farm invaded our senses. From a small concrete room just off the side of the house came the sight of glowing embers and the delicious waft of our dinner which had been roasting underground in a stone pit for nearly five hours. Not just customers, but guests of their home, our hosts first offered us a sampling of any of the 20 homemade brandies and liqueurs infused with either mint, cinnamon, or stone fruits. We were off to a great start!
Platters of aged goat cheese, cured meats, and aubergine puree adorned our table to commence the feast. The cheese was slightly salty and tangy, with a beautiful crumbly texture. The meats were darker, earthier, and slightly thicker cut. The puree was smoky and creamy while all being scooped up with fresh homemade breads. A vegetable soup course highlighted the freshness of the produce while still maintaining their texture in a perfectly seasoned broth. To accompany the main course were zucchini fritters, fresh tomatoes and cucumbers drizzled in oil and spices, and roasted potatoes cooked in fat from the succulent meats. The trio of goat, veal, and chicken was a carnivorous feast for the senses. Juicy, tender, and falling off the bone, it all smelled incredible and held onto their pure meaty aromas and earthy flavors. Of course the dinner would not have been complete without a little wine. In the true nature of the meal, there were no fancy bottles or recognizable names. Instead, a large barrel of local wine made from a variety of red grapes poured into our glasses. Bright juicy notes of red cherries, plums, vanilla, and spice. A rounded mouth feel but with the lively acidity to cut through the lush fat on the meat.
As dinner was winding down, our kayak friend pulled a guitar from the house and jammed away. Opening with Monty Python's "Bright Side of Life", to Flight of the Conchords, to Bob Dylan, to traditional Croatian songs, he had us singling, dancing, and falling out of our seats laughing. New friends and old, all at the same table, all having the time of our lives. On several occasions I had to just sit back in my chair and take everything in. Speechless, I sat with my glass of wine and just smiled at the incredible fortune and meal that we'd experienced. It wasn't just the food or the people or even the setting. It was everything, and how it had come together so randomly. I guess no matter how precisely you plan your holiday, just make sure that you always talk to the locals and leave a bit of room for the unexpected.
Wine Recommendations
2006 Plavac Mali, Grgic - That's right, the same Mike Grgich from the Napa. The same Mike Grgch whose 1973 Chateau Montelena chardonnay beat the French at their own game. The Plavac Mali grape is related to our modern day zinfandel and whose origin is in fact Croatian. Herbal with hints of tobacco and cedar, round plum tart notes and lush acidity.
2008 Posip, Grgic - This bottling of the posip grape tends to the stone fruits of nectarines and apricots. Some extended lees contact gives even more complexity adding notes of cloves, spice, vanilla, and dried fruits. Elegant weight in the wine and can stand up to the smokiness of grilled fish.
2009 Grasevina, Krauthaker - When crafted with a bit of care, as done here, the grasevina grape displays the minerality and the clay/chalky terroir found in Croatia. Kafir lime with citrus and white flowers lingering on the palate. The bright acidity and delicate weight to the wine make it a perfect match for some of the lighter fish fare you'll find on the islands.
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