Not long ago it was the wine bar. Then, the small plates and tapas movement began to take over. Today, local/seasonal restaurants are multiplying in your neighborhood like jackrabbits. When I first came to London 15 years ago there were certainly no local British restaurants. I remember going French our first night, then Italian the following night, and then dying for some real British food to round out the trip. Sure enough, it was back to the French. Today it’s a much different story with more and more restaurants taking to this local movement. So how do we distinguish the authentic and exceptional from just another local?
If you look on-line you might find books and calenders charting when certain foods are at their height. You may have even heard, "only eat oysters in months with an R." Everyone wants to be an expert but only the truly passionate go the extra mile to recognize that even a stalk of asparagus ripens differently from climate to climate, country to country, and even year to year. The extraordinary don’t just take what the seasons give them, but get out there into nature with dirt under their nails and seize the best of the season. Chef Alan Stewart has epitomised this having recently taken over the kitchen at Manson Restaurant in London. He’s less concerned with labels like “farm to table” and instead just cooks from his instincts. Don't picture him getting lost in books digging up old recipes, he has his nose right in the field just five minutes from his Fulham restaurant. A small allotment allows him to see firsthand when the produce is ready and dishes are born from that inspiration. One day he might have it and the next it’s gone, but that’s what the seasons determine. It’s more than just being inspired by the seasons, it's actually getting your hands on the most beautiful, freshest ingredients, and showcasing the best they have to offer.
So how do you discover who are the truly seasonal restaurants? How do you decode the mountain of restaurant guides and reviews? Just get out there and ask the chef! A group of us dined at Manson recently and Chef Alan was right there beaming about the latest produce to come in from the allotment. I was ecstatic about the venison but it was a piece of fresh celeriac that just came in that had chef over the moon. A simple puree that exploded with autumn and root flavors accompanied the venison tartar and completely made the dish. This chef certainly isn't hiding in the back and the open kitchen allows you to share comments on a favorite dish or ask him questions about the food. The idea of a local restaurant is more than just convenience. Gems like Manson are local because they invite you to enjoy the treats of the season and all the staff on-hand are eager to share their excitement. I've said the same thing before about sommeliers and wine professionals. Look them in the eye and find out where their passion stands. That's how you really find out who you want right around the corner.
Wine Recommendations With Seasonal Game Menu at Manson
Scottish Venison tartar, celeriac, cobnuts, and pickled girolles- 2008 Little Yering Pinot Noir, Yering Staiton, Yarra Valley, Australia. Cool climate Pinot from one of the top Producers in Victoria. Flavors of red cherries, spice and mushrooms dominate this wine with its silky texture and bright acidity to match the tartar of venison.
Red Leg Partridge, quince, honey, and toasted oats - 2008 Limousin Reserva, Marques de Riscal, Rueda Spain. One of the best known producers in all of Rioja, this wine ventures west of the region to produce this white wine from Rueda. A blend of Verdejo and Viura, the wine has a beautiful straw yellow color with added richness and complexity coming from the extended maceration and lees contact. Notes of honey, fennel, lemon, grilled peaches, and hazelnuts. Quite a bit going on in this wine and a slightly more full bodied texture to stand up to the game and a lovely smokiness to tie the dish together.
Yorkshire Grouse, damsons and savoy cabbage- 2007 Biferno Reserva, Camillos de Lellis, Molise, Italy. A wonderful gem from Southern Italy, just above in the heal of the boot in Molise. The main grape in this wine is Montepulciano, similar to Sangiovese but a little different, mixed with Aglianico and Trebiano (yes a white grape). The wine is earthy and rustic with hints of plums, damsons, figs, licorice, and tobacco.
Apple tart with clove ice-cream- 2009 Coteaux du Layon, Domaine du Pont de Livier, Loire, France. A sweet wine from the chenin blanc grape grown in the mineral rich Loire valley. Not too sticky and racy acidity make this a perfect pairing with the apple tart and yet still refreshing the palate after so many delicious flavors. Great notes of apple, pear, honey, cinnamon, and clove.
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